A Trip Through the Neon Museum

Michael James takes a stroll through The Neon Museum…

Las Vegas once had a simpler time.

2009 was a time before resort fees, Spongebob characters, casinos with eardrum-splitting music volumes and zip lines. It was also a time before Vegas Bright.

So when planning my 2009 visit to Las Vegas, one in which my Vegas Virginal parents would tag along, it took a bit of an effort to find some family activities. I came across information on the Vegas Boneyard, and I was quickly hooked.

At the time, the office was located across Las Vegas Boulevard from the signs, and the boneyard was just that… a gravel-covered lot in two sections that comprised of a lot of decaying signs. The signs were presented without much plan; the makeshift walkways were lined on both sides by signs placed with no rhyme or reason. And I fell in love with it. An original Golden Nugget sign here, a stray Coin Castle king there, and parts of the Stardust all over the place. Between myself and my dad, we took an excessive number of photos.

During the tour, the guide did mention that they had procured the lobby of the La Concha Motel and that it would installed as the visitors center. She was also proud of the number of signs that already had been restored and displayed on Fremont St.

Fast forwarding to current times and Las Vegas is no longer simple. Parking fees are going to be instituted soon. The High Roller is featured in more photos than are taken from inside it. Multiple rock stages line Fremont St. under the canopy. And we now have Vegas Bright.

In planning my trip to Las Vegas last month, I had wanted to get back to the renamed Neon Museum… if for no other reason than 2009 was a long time ago. I’d driven past on previous trips and had seen the La Concha lobby open, and saw the fantastic sign in the adjacent park. It was time to revisit the inside.

It is not a stretch to say that in the intervening seven years, the folks at the Neon Museum have really dialed it in. The tour starts in the visitor’s center, where the guest can wait in the air conditioned lobby that also doubles as a gift shop. As the tour starts, the guide offers each participant a courtesy umbrella to protect from the hot desert sun.

One of the first signs that were pointed out wasn’t actually on the property; rather it was being displayed in the median on Las Vegas Boulevard. That was the Silver Slipper, which used to grace the, um, Silver Slipper. In 2009, it was in the process of being refurbished, and that tour guide had told the story of how the slipper had gotten damaged when Wayne Newton was not careful in advance of a photo shoot. After everyone on the current tour oohed and aahed the displayed sign, we moved onto the main part of the grounds.

In the background of the featured sings were other signs getting some glory. They weren’t part of the tour, but they looked happy to be there anyway.

Across the street was one of the Lady Luck signs peering over the wrought iron fence. She was clearly wondering why she hadn’t been invited to the party, and it felt like she was speaking for the other non-displayed signs where were trying to figure out “what gives”? Poor gal. Here’s hoping that she is either restored and displayed or else at least given a chance to shine as a featured sign on the main tour.

[Michael James, Robert James | Cover: JD Sanders]